Page 57 - The Connection Warren-Watchung Edition September 2012
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Don’t Forget
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HEATING & COOLING EQUIPMENT
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COMPLIMENTARY HEATING AND
AIR CONDITIONING ANALYSIS!
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Q:
I’ve been told that my heating and cooling
system is old and I should replace it. Are there
any simple things I can do myself to determine
how well it’s working?
– Bill, Warren
A:
Bill, that’s a great question and the answer is
“yes.” If you can read a thermometer and
humidity gauge, then you’re already there.
The tips below are useful for a basic system
check. Consult with a local expert for a detailed
analysis.
During Heating Season
To test if your equipment is heating properly, get
yourself a pocket thermometer such as the Taylor
model 5989N. This item costs around $5.
During a cold winter’s day and with the system
running for at least 15 minutes, insert the stem
of the thermometer into various supply registers
around your home and record the temperatures.
Your registers closest to the furnace should read
from 110-115°F. The most distant registers
should read no less than 100-105°F.
If many of your readings are below 100 degrees,
your furnace may be generating too little heat
for your home, there may be excessive cold air
infiltration into the ductwork, or the fan blower
speed may be set too high for the heating mode.
The equipment itself
might
be fine.
If many of your readings are over 115°F, your fur-
nace may be oversized for your home, may have
the gas inlet set too high, or there may be too lit-
tle air flow through the furnace, possibly due to
a clogged filter.
If all of your registers are between 105-115°F,
but the house remains uncomfortable, it may not
be the equipment malfunctioning, but rather
excessive air infiltration around doors, windows,
and heat loss through a leaky attic or basement.
Sealing the house against outside air infiltration
and beefing up insulation may resolve the issue.
A consultation with an energy efficiency expert
may help.
During Cooling Season
During the summer, high humidity is the bane of
the cooling system. Temperature, humidity, and
air flow through the equipment all affect system
performance.
Air conditioners must condense moisture vapor
(humidity) from the air before it can be cooled,
consuming a large percentage of its capacity. The
more humid the air, the more moisture must con-
dense out before it cools, reducing how much
the air temperature is lowered.
Many people presume their older equipment
isn’t working simply because the system strug-
gles to cool the house during the summer. In
reality, new equipment may not perform any bet-
ter in the home unless the home is properly ana-
lyzed for its heating load, air tightness, and duct
sizing.
With just a little know-how, you can make some
basic measurements to determine whether or
not your equipment is working.
All that is required are two instruments. The first
is the pocket thermometer. The second is a
hygrometer (a.k.a. relative humidity gauge).
Exo Terra’s model PT2466 retails for about $7.
First, determine the relative humidity in the
home. Set your thermostat to 75°F and place the
hygrometer near it. Humidity levels change very
slowly, so it may take some time to get a stable
reading. Allow the house to cool to 75°F.
50% relative humidity is considered comfortable
at 75°F. If your system is working properly, your
hygrometer should be reading between 45-55%
relative humidity.
If the humidity remains above 55%, or if the
house never reaches the 75°F, the problem may
not lie with your equipment. There may be an
excessive amount of air infiltration into the home
from the outside. Sealing leaks at windows and
doors might be all you need to do. A consulta-
tion with an expert is a good idea.
In our region, when the temperature outside
exceeds 90°F, it is not uncommon for cooling
equipment to run continuously throughout the
day.
Once at 75°F and while the system is still run-
ning, measure several register temperatures
using the pocket thermometer. Next, compute
the temperature difference between 75°F and
the average temperature of the registers. This is
known as the “split temperature difference”
across the system.
If the difference is less than 17°, there may be a
problem but not necessarily with the equipment.
Several causes for low split temperature include:
Air moving too quickly through the evaporator
coil, incorrect level of refrigerant charge, and
excessive heat being absorbed in the ductwork.
Correcting one or more of these problems may
solve the low split. Speaking with an expert
would make sense.
If the split is between 18-23°, your system is
functioning properly and replacement is likely
unnecessary. Your home should feel comfort-
able, even if the equipment is running continu-
ously, especially if it is very hot outside.
If the split exceeds 23°, your system may be over-
sized for your home. Being oversized is not an
equipment problem unto itself, but it does con-
tribute to higher energy bills, hot and cold spots
within the home, and can contribute to mold
growth within the ductwork. Again, an expert’s
opinion might be helpful.
Like taking one’s blood pressure and tempera-
ture measurements to assess one’s health, the
measurements described above can indicate the
basic operation of your heating and cooling
equipment before jumping to the conclusion
that it’s time to replace it, regardless of its age.
About the Author
: Mr. Pincus is the owner of “Around
Your House LLC.” The Warren, NJ based company is state
registered (#13VH00930100), EPA Lead-Safe Certified
(#NAT-26396-1), and insured. Mr. Pincus holds both a
Bachelors Degree in Electrical Engineering and a Masters
Degree in Engineering Management. He is universally
licensed in refrigeration (EPA #588485303780) and is a
Lead-Free Certified Remodeler (EPA #R-I-18342-10-
01131). For more information call 732-748-0294 or email
at apincus@ayhllc.com.
Send Us Your Questions:
Submit your questions to
AskTheContractor@ayhllc.com and your question may be
answered in a future edition of “Ask The Contractor.”
IS YOUR HEATING AND
COOLING EQUIPMENT SICK?
TAKE ITS TEMPERATURE TO FIND OUT.
By: Allan Pincus
The Connections NJ