Page 28 - The Connection Bernards-Ridge Edition November 2012
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It seems to me that nothing strikes more
fear in the heart of casual wine drinkers
than the task of pairing food and wine.
Hand someone the wine list at a restaurant
and the pressure is on – but it shouldn’t be
so intimidating. Sure, wine and food can be
complicated, but that’s what makes it so
interesting. My advice? Relax, take a deep
breath and have some fun with it. Here are
a few simple guidelines that should help to
take a bit of the pain out of the process.
The restaurant setting is the toughest in my
opinion, even more so if there is no som-
melier to help guide you through the list.
Adding to the dilemma is that guests are
usually having quite different dishes, from
salads to mild fish to beef or lamb. Squar-
ing that circle is almost impossible, and a
bottle each of red and white might be the
only out. Selecting a couple of half bottles
if they have them or ordering by the glass
are other options too. If the restaurant has
a sommelier, ask for advice. They know the
food, they know the wine, and all they
need to do is figure out what YOU like and
they can begin to guide you to something
on their list. If there is no one there to
guide you, look for grapes, producers and
regions you know and like and go with the
familiar. If the cuisine is from a specific
region or country, go local. Wines and food
from specific regions, especially in Europe
where traditions span centuries, truly seem
to have a natural affinity for each other and
going regional is definitely an option.
BYO’s present some of the same chal-
lenges, especially when everyone orders
different entrees. I feel no shame in coming
in over-wined and ready for more than a
few pairing options. A couple of different
whites and reds, perhaps a lighter crisper
white and a fuller richer one, and the same
for the reds, will increase the chance that
you’ll find something that works. We do
get some stares when the two of us walk in
with an overflowing wine bag. The advan-
tage here is you most likely have wines you
know and like, and just need to match
them with the food.
Dining at home is easier in my opinion.
Usually everyone is having the same thing,
and the decision can be made well in
advance, avoiding the whole pressure
packed wine list moment. When buying
wine for personal consumption or to pair
with a specific menu, get advice. Find a
shop where they know their wines, and I
don’t just mean the ratings, where they
know the grapes, producers and styles of
the wines they sell. A good wine shop’s
staff will begin to know you and your tastes
over time and offer suggestions that suit
your palate from their selection.
Finally, I usually think of a meal as a pro-
gression of flavors, usually beginning
lighter with some appetizers, maybe a mid-
dle course of something a bit richer, and
finally a main course. Wines should follow,
starting lighter to match and moving up in
depth, richness and body to match the
meal. Think about the ingredients, how
they are prepared and choose wines that
are in the same vein: light crisp whites with
delicate or mild seafood. Sauvignon Banc
from the Loire, Chablis from Burgundy are
some great options. Go with fuller whites
like Chardonnay from California or Bur-
gundy’s famed villages of Puligny or Chas-
sagne Montrachet with meatier fish like
lobster or seared scallops. Medium bodied
reds are perfect with light meats including
pork, veal, poultry or game birds. Pinot Noir
from California, Oregon or Burgundy, Cru
Beaujolais such as Morgon or Fleurie, a
Spanish Rioja or Chianti from Italy are all
options. Finally, with hearty foods like
lamb, steaks or game, go big. California’s
Cabernet based reds are perfect if you pre-
fer new world power and concentration,
Bordeaux, Rhone for traditional old world
flavor, Priorat or Ribero del Duero from
Spain, or Italy’s big killer “b’s”, Brunello,
Barolo or Barbaresco are all in play. Of
course there are thousands of other
options from lesser-known regions if you
are one to experiment. Some of these sin-
gular wines really only reach their pinnacle
of expression when served with the right
food. Don’t be afraid take the path less
trodden - some of the most unique wines
in the world are waiting for you to discov-
er. But at the end of the day, there is only
really one rule and that is to drink some-
thing you truly enjoy and remember to
enjoy the experience!
PAIRING FOOD AND WINE
By: Christopher Cree MW, 56° Wine
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